Mikhail’s All-Star World Tour 2006

A couple of nights ago, we went to a Czech puppet theatre show. Large marionettes put on an abridged performance of Mozart’s Don Giovanni, complete with dramatic opera singing and supernatural special effects. Going to the show was Eric’s idea originally, and he was nearly apologetic afterwards, worried that we’d been bored. But Kenny and I enjoyed it thoroughly (Dave had gone back to the hostel instead). I think Czech puppet theater could be the next big thing on TV, if filmed dramatically. The visual style would be unique, would attract attention and set it apart. Tim Burton and Wallace & Gromit fans would be all over it, especially if the writing is good. Hollywood, send checks.

We went out to the bars again Saturday night. There was a modern and empty place, like a 21st century Nightwatch; we started drinking absinthe there. We tried a rock club, where the waitress wouldn’t serve us fries. On the way somewhere else, I noticed Schweik on a sign and we went in for a snack. It’s the bar where Brave Soldier Schweik begins, with the emperor’s portrait that attracts politically incorrect flies and illustrations from the book. I read this book three or four times as a kid, so it was great to see the real setting. Afterwards there was a Cuban bar, loud and packed, with dancing. We walked to the river again, took a bunch of blurry night pictures, then headed back.

On our last morning in Prague, we managed to wake up to another debacle: it was 8:30 when we thought 7:30, so we barely made it to the airport in time. Daylight savings time kicked in while we slept - what are the odds!

We spent our first full day yesterday walking around Prague. Most of the afternoon was a walking tour that took us from Vaclav Square to Old Town, over the Charles Bridge and up into Prague Castle. Afterwards, we had some dinner (goulash and Budvar for me), then returned to the river for the night view. My first impression has only been reinforced: I remain awed by this city.

On an even lighter note, a “stupid Mikhail” story. All of us needed to do laundry, so on Thursday we dropped off our clothes at a full-service place two blocks from our hostel. We didn’t have time to pick up our clothes on Friday because of the tour, and when I went there this morning I discovered that they’re closed for the weekend. So I guess my wardrobe will be getting some Czech flavor, and now there’s more room in my bag for souvenirs…

Got into Prague yesterday, by train from Berlin. The train ride was great, especially the second half (between Dresden in Prague): the tracks followed along a twisting, half-frozen river (Danube?), and across the water there are green hills with old rock castles on top.

Our hostel is in Old Town, five minutes from the clocktower by foot, so everything is close. We started with a traditional dinner at a place called “U dvo kocek”, with big mugs of fresh Pilsner Urquell. By the time we were done, it was twilight and we walked over through the clocktower square, over the bridge, around the cobblestone streets and back to the hostel. I don’t have words for how gorgeous this city is: the fairy-tale castles, churches, angled alleys, and lights along the Vltava, it’s everything I fantasized about when I was a kid with a bookcase of historical novels.

Sure, there are tourists, but not too many because of the off-season. And it’s cold, too, but that’s improving and it doesn’t seem to bother me as much here. Our hostel is next to two landmark bars, “Marquis de Sade” and “Chateau Rouge”, so we warmed up with a few more Czech beers after all that walking. Looking forward to exploring more today and tomorrow, it’s awesome that we’re staying three nights!